Batteries

Batteries for passenger cars, motorcycles and scooters. Choose by capacity, cold cranking amps and case dimensions.

Car batteries Motorcycle batteries

Find it by your old battery

The case code is on the label of your old battery or stamped into its lid. It determines the exact dimensions, and therefore whether the battery will fit in the tray.

L2R 242 x 175 x 190 mm 55-64Ah · from 57 € L3R 278 x 175 x 190 mm 70-80Ah · from 71 € L5R 353 x 175 x 190 mm 92-100Ah · from 97 € L1R 208 x 175 x 190 mm 50-55Ah · from 71 € LB3R 278 x 175 x 175 mm 65-74Ah · from 71 € D23R 232 x 173 x 225 mm 60-65Ah · from 57 € D26R 261 x 175 x 220 mm 70-75Ah · from 92 € L4R 315 x 175 x 190 mm 80-90Ah · from 104 € L6R 393 x 175 x 190 mm 105-110Ah · from 152 € LB4R 315 x 175 x 175 mm 75-85Ah · from 76 € B19RM 187 x 127 x 227 mm 35-40Ah · from 38 € B24LM 238 x 129 x 227 mm 45Ah · from 48 € D31R 306 x 173 x 225 mm 85-95Ah · from 107 € LB1R 208 x 175 x 175 mm 44-52Ah · from 46 € LB2R 242 x 175 x 175 mm 60-61Ah · from 60 € B24RM 238 x 129 x 227 mm 45Ah · from 47 € D23L 232 x 173 x 225 mm 60Ah · from 61 € D26L 261 x 175 x 220 mm 70-75Ah · from 92 € D31L 306 x 173 x 225 mm 95Ah · from 106 € L0R 175 x 175 x 190 mm 40-44Ah · from 40 € B24R 238 x 129 x 227 mm 45Ah · from 60 € E2L 220 x 135 x 225 mm 45Ah · from 45 € E2R 220 x 135 x 225 mm 45Ah · from 47 € B19LM 187 x 127 x 227 mm 35-40Ah · from 38 € B20LM 196 x 127 x 223 mm 35Ah · from 104 € B24L 238 x 129 x 227 mm 45Ah · from 60 € L1L 208 x 175 x 190 mm 45-50Ah · from 59 € L2L 242 x 175 x 190 mm 60-62Ah · from 73 € L3L 278 x 175 x 190 mm 74Ah · from 90 € 1403 513 x 189 x 223 mm 120Ah · from 144 € 75S 230 x 180 x 186 mm 55Ah · from 120 € 78S 260 x 180 x 186 mm 70Ah · from 137 € D20R 200 x 173 x 222 mm 50Ah · from 87 € LB5R 353 x 175 x 175 mm 85Ah · from 114 € LH4 315 x 175 x 205 mm 105Ah · from 138 €

Does your car have a start-stop system?

A car like that needs an AGM or EFB battery. In start-stop mode the engine is started many times more often, and a conventional lead-acid battery lasts far less time under that load. If the old battery's label says AGM or EFB, the replacement must be the same type.

View AGM and EFB batteries (52)

Choose by capacity

Capacity in amp hours is printed on the label of every battery. For a replacement, choose the same capacity or higher.

35Ah 240-520A from 38 € 40Ah 330-420A from 40 € 44Ah 400-440A from 46 € 45Ah 300-400A from 45 € 50Ah 390-570A from 69 € 55Ah 460-620A from 68 € 60Ah 390-660A from 57 € 62Ah 540-680A from 73 € 65Ah 580-650A from 90 € 70Ah 540-780A from 92 € 72Ah 680-760A from 71 € 74Ah 680-750A from 90 € 75Ah 630-750A from 103 € 77Ah 680-780A from 71 € 80Ah 740-800A from 76 € 85Ah 760-830A from 102 € 95Ah 720-850A from 106 € 100Ah 830-900A from 97 € 105Ah 850-950A from 138 €

How to choose a battery

Everything you need is on the label of the old battery. Read it in this order.

Read the case code

L2, LB3, D23 and the like. One code means one set of dimensions, so it answers the first question: whether the battery will fit the tray at all. If you cannot find the code, the dimensions do just as well.

Compare capacity and amps

Amp hours and amps, neither of them lower than what the old battery states. A higher capacity is fine as long as the case fits. In winter it is the amps that decide the outcome.

Check the technology and polarity

If the old battery says AGM or EFB, a conventional battery will not do - that is what the car's start-stop system needs. The positive terminal has to be on the same side, or the cables will not reach it.

Battery brands

Brands with batteries currently in stock.

LANDPORT

73 batteries

EXIDE

66 batteries

VARTA

58 batteries

FULBAT

54 batteries

PERION

21 batteries

Continental

5 batteries

Frequently asked questions

A replacement has to match the battery in the car on five things: the same voltage (12 V on a passenger car), capacity in amp hours no lower, cold cranking amps no lower, the same case dimensions and the positive terminal on the same side. The first three decide whether the battery will turn the starter, the last two whether it fits the tray at all and whether the cables reach the terminals.

All five are printed on the label of the battery currently in the car. The manufacturer states the same figures in the owner's manual.
The label is on the top or the side of the battery, and the case code is often stamped into the plastic of the lid as well. The label carries the voltage, the capacity in amp hours and the cold cranking amps together with the standard they were measured to - for example 12 V, 60 Ah, 540 A EN.

European batteries often carry a nine-digit ETN code next to those figures, such as 560 408 054. The first three digits are voltage and capacity: 5 means a 12-volt battery under 100 Ah, the next two mean 60 Ah. The middle three describe the case and terminal layout. The last three, multiplied by ten, are the cold cranking amps to the EN standard, so 540 A.

The case code - L2, L3, LB3, D23 and the like - stands for a specific length, width and height. You can search this page by case code: each code is shown with its dimensions in millimetres.
Amp hours tell you how long the battery can run the car's electrics with the engine off. Amps tell you how much current it can deliver in the cold: the EN standard measures the current a fully charged battery sustains for 30 seconds at -18 °C without the voltage dropping below 7.2 V.

On a cold morning it is the current that decides the outcome, because the oil in the engine has thickened and the starter needs more. Capacity becomes the important figure when the car stands for long periods or runs extra electrical loads.
These are three different measuring standards, and the same battery produces a different number under each: the DIN figure is a good deal lower than the EN one, the SAE figure slightly higher. Only numbers with the same marking can be compared - otherwise a battery quoted in DIN looks weaker than it really is.

Almost every battery in our range states its current to the EN standard, and the standard is shown in the product data.
If the case fits the tray, the clamp holds it and the terminals are on the right side, a higher capacity does the car no harm: the alternator charges to a voltage, not to a set number of amp hours. It earns its keep when the car stands a lot or carries extra electrical loads.

Going below the factory figure is a bad idea - what runs short in winter is exactly the cold cranking amps. On a car where the new battery has to be registered with the on-board computer, stay with the factory capacity, because that is what the system uses when it plans the charging.
In an ordinary lead-acid battery the electrolyte is liquid. An EFB is the same construction with tougher plates, built for frequent starting. In an AGM battery the electrolyte is absorbed into a glass fibre mat between the plates, which makes it better at coping with vibration and repeated discharge. In a GEL battery the electrolyte is thickened into a gel.

The car section holds conventional, EFB and AGM batteries. GEL and lithium batteries in our range sit in the motorcycle section. If the label on the old battery says neither AGM nor EFB, it is a conventional battery with liquid electrolyte.
No. In start-stop operation the engine is cranked many times more often than usual, and a conventional battery has a markedly shorter life under that duty.

Varta puts the replacement rule like this: if the car left the factory with AGM, the replacement must be AGM too, because the vehicle's energy management overstresses a conventional battery; if it left with EFB, either EFB or AGM will do. Which of the two is in the car now is written on the label of the old battery.
On some cars, yes. They carry a battery management system that tracks the battery's age and condition and adjusts the charging to match. After a replacement it has to be told with a diagnostic tool that the battery is new, and sometimes its type and capacity as well.

Varta names this requirement for Audi, BMW, Jaguar, Jeep, Land Rover, Mazda, Mini, Seat, Skoda and Volkswagen. Skip the registration and the system keeps charging as though the battery were worn, so the new one does not last as long. A workshop normally does it as part of the replacement.
Polarity is which side the positive terminal sits on. The car's cables are a fixed length, so with the polarity reversed the positive cable simply will not reach its terminal. Turning the battery around does not help, because the terminals then end up at the far edge of the tray.

Checking it is easy: stand in front of the battery so the terminals are along the edge nearest you, and see which side the positive is on. The new battery needs its positive on that same side.
The first sign is the starter: the engine turns over more slowly than it used to, especially on the first cold mornings. After that come the dashboard and interior lights dimming noticeably as you crank, and the start-stop function no longer engaging.

With a voltmeter you can check the battery after a few hours with no load: fully charged it reads around 12.6-12.8 V, and below 12.4 V it is no longer full. The definitive answer still comes from a load test at a workshop - voltage on its own does not show whether the battery can deliver the current it needs to.
A lead-acid battery slowly discharges even when completely disconnected, and in a car there are also permanent loads: the alarm, the keyless receiver, the control units. So on a car that is driven rarely or only on short runs the battery is often not fully charged - on a short trip the alternator cannot put back what starting consumed, especially in winter.

Standing half-discharged for long stretches builds sulphate on the plates, and that damage is permanent. A maintenance charger or a regular longer drive helps.
Motorcycle batteries are chosen by the type code written on the battery itself - YTX12-BS or YB9-B, for instance. The code fixes the dimensions, the terminal layout and the capacity, and our catalogue names motorcycle batteries by exactly those codes, so a matching code means the battery fits.

The range holds AGM, GEL and lithium batteries, and 6-volt batteries for older machines.
If the car does not need the new battery registered, the job is simple. Disconnect the negative terminal first, then the positive; when refitting, the positive goes first. In that order a spanner touching the bodywork cannot create a short.

Lift the old battery out level and secure the new one with the same clamp - an unsecured battery moves about while you drive and the terminals work loose. On some cars you also have to reset the window end stops and enter the radio code after the power has been off.
A battery is hazardous household waste. It must not go into household waste or into a recycling container, and the acid must not be poured out of it.

There are several places that take it:

- Any shop that sells batteries. A trader selling batteries and accumulators has to accept used ones from consumers free of charge.
- A municipal recycling site that accepts hazardous waste. For Rīga, the map of every sorting and hazardous waste point is on the city's own site, riga.lv; elsewhere the local waste operator publishes the list.
- A hazardous waste collection point. Seven of them in Rīga are run by AS "BAO", one of those on the Getliņi landfill site; there are collection points in Jelgava, Daugavpils, Liepāja, Ventspils and Valmiera as well.
- A scrap metal and battery buyer, which will also pay for the old battery, because lead is a valuable secondary raw material.

When transporting an old battery, stand it upright and secure it so that it cannot tip over on the way.

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